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Arriving in Kangerlussuaq, site of Greenland's main airport, is a surreal experience. The little red plane with white spots bumps along the runway and deposits you at the door of the terminal, a prefabricated building of metal sheeting perched above the ground. Similar buildings are dotted about, like the works site of a huge but invisible project. The terminal, you soon realise, doubles as your hotel, the best in Kangerlussuaq, and will be your home for a few nights.
Outside, a signpost indicates the direction of the north pole, and flying time: I settle into my room, with a bird's eye view over the runway. It has a charm all its own. The airmen's settlement still remains, on the other side of the airfield, as though awaiting their return, the houses now occupied by those employed at the airport and in tourism.
It boasts a gym, bar, bowling alley, and museum in the former commander's lodgings. Near the hotel, there is a one-stop shop, stocked by a twice-yearly supply ship from Denmark, and a golf course, created to amuse the airmen.
And that's about it. This little settlement of souls, however, is the hub of Greenland's tourism industry. You might well ask why.
And that's where things get interesting. Kangerlussuaq's tiny airport is the largest in the country, and the only one capable of accommodating the Boeing s that arrive from Denmark, a five-hour flight away.