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From huge icebergs to whales and traditional villages, it has to be seen to be believed. The multicoloured houses of Greenland are a sight to behold. Not a bad view to wake up to. Six years ago we watched old wooden whaling boats complete with harpoon guns unload their catch upon the docks, and the whales we saw were understandably shy. Returning last year to run a photography tour, it was wonderful to see these same old boats now converting to the more tourism-friendly activity of whale-watching tours, and a growing population of Humpback whales reliably cruising among the icebergs.
Just a couple of Arctic wolf puppies. I left my GoPro camera outside one hole, and the next morning, it was gone! I eventually found it, and reviewing the footage, was delighted to find three black arctic fox cubs had playing with it! One of the cheeky black arctic fox cubs. In there were more sled dogs than people in Ilulissat — about 5, of them staked around the outskirts of town — and although there are less than half that many today, returning last July, five adorable puppies had just been born.
Their eyes not yet open, they fumbled and squeaked around inside the kennel while their mother stood beside us peering in at the very newest additions to one of the oldest breeds of dog in the world, arriving with the Saqqaq people between and years ago. North of the Arctic Circle in Greenland, only these Greenlandic sled dogs are allowed, keeping this wonderfully strong and noble breed pure.
Chris Bray playing with a cute sled dog puppy. Just to the south though, in the tiny traditional village of Ilimanaq, the 53 local inhabitants still hang their fish out on drying racks and enjoy a much simpler lifestyle. After Ilulissat, Jess and I sailed onwards right across the top of Canada and Alaska through the infamous Northwest Passage finding polar bears and more, but of the whole multi-year adventure, we enjoyed our time in Greenland the most.
Chris Bray grew up sailing around the world, then leading arctic expeditions before becoming an award-winning photographer running tours around the world.