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Though it may not look it at first glance, Wenceslas Square is more than a string of strip clubs and currency booths — at least it is to me. My job as a journalist first brought me to the Czech Republic some 30 years ago, and the square has always left me with a feeling of strangeness and mystery.
My aim was to dig deeper into the history, architecture, culture and psychology of the space, which has stood at the heart of Prague for six centuries it began life as a horse market in the 14 th century. I wanted to take the pulse of the place, both during the day and at night. In this effort, I discovered quirks and features that tell stories not just from the past, but also reveal some of the contradictions of modern life in the Czech Republic. My own first memories of Wenceslas Square are hazy.
It was some time in the s — possibly in We had just finished our meals and Arnold had gone to the counter to get a coffee.
I recall feeling restless, and I decided to leave the table for a moment to get some air and take a walk. My motives were as innocent as that. I hadn't gone further than a few meters when Arnold, out of nowhere, appeared in my face. He was angry with me — much angrier than he should have been under the circumstances. Suddenly, everything became clear. It was his job to watch me, assess me, and report back on what I did and what I said.
Read more about what a fascinating character Arnold turned out to be here. One of the building's grandest features, he points out, was a ground floor made of glass, now covered in tile, which once looked down on a luxurious octagonal swimming pool. The layout of the store, with its various layers and depths, looks exactly like the shape of a swimming pool.